2008 Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons Liberty Floral Gold Lace Runway Jacket

Junya Watanabe told The New York Times that fashion for him “is creating something new through clothes,” but for his spring/summer 2008 collection, the Japanese designer looked to the past for inspiration. Among an array of artfully draped blouson dresses appeared a selection of jackets, like this exquisite one, reminiscent of those worn in the late-eighteenth-century habit à la française.

Fitted throughout the torso, parting at the hips, trimmed in sumptuous gold lace and flourished with a peplum-like back, it references all the signatures of the regal silhouette. But then the former patternmaker for Rei Kawakubo deconstructs them. He replaces the cravat with a raw undercollar, constructed to peek out from behind a dropped jewel neckline edged with a hand-stitched white ruffled grosgrain ribbon.

He swaps out a formal fabric for a sweet crinkled cotton one, embellishing it throughout with rococo dressmaking details, including shirring, gathers and more ruffles—all haphazardly placed to deliberately accentuate the sewer’s part in tailoring the look. Finally, he continues the craftsmanship on the inside, impeccably finishing it with metal hook front closures, an ivory cotton lining, ruched satin cord and a gold chain at the hem to weight the fit. This is a couture-quality find—a one-of-a-kind for the collector who has an appreciation for history, the avant-garde and Watanabe’s genius.

Measurements

Size: L

Bust: 36 inches

Waist: 30 inches

Hips: Up to 38 inches

Sleeve length: 25 inches

Length: 27 inches

This Junya Watanabe jacket from the spring/summer 2008 collection (look #34) is in excellent condition. Partly crafted by hand, the sewing details and size are unique, making it extra special. It is tailored from an ivory crinkled cotton Liberty print of pink roses. It is trimmed in gold lace and white grosgrain ribbon at the jewel neckline, center placket, hem, split cuffs and four front pockets.

It is fitted throughout the torso and flared gently at the hips, with shirring, gathers and ruffles embellishing it all over. Metal hook front closures, a white cotton lining, ruched satin cord and a gold chain at the hem to weight the fit finish the look. High-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.