Chloé Phoebe Philo Limited Edition Silk Dress Fall 2005

Named “the Chanel of her generation” by the New York Times, designer and fashion icon Phoebe Philo enjoyed a successful run at Chloé, memorably creating a collection of cult handbags among other triumphs. For the Chloé 2005 Fall collection Philo reimagined some of Karl Lagerfeld’s work from the 90s, including some of the most coveted prints he ever produced.

As seen as look number 21 on that season’s runway and in the featured images on Diane Kruger, this beautiful dress is every inch the bohemian fantasy. This dress was also seen on the streets of Paris during fashion week in 2005, as reported in an article for Harper’s Bazaar.

The abstract, Indian-motif print is based on a print Karl Lagerfeld created for the Chloé 1993 Spring runway, which sold at the renowned Kerry Taylor auction house for 11,000 Pounds in 2020, illustrating the value and collectability of this print. The original designs by Karl Lagerfeld can be seen in the featured images on Kate Moss as photographed by Peter Lindbergh, and on Linda Evangelista, who walked the 1993 Spring runway.

Done in silk and lace, the dress features a print of triangles, circles, and abstract shapes in shades of green, red, orange, blue and brown on an ivory ground. The bodice begins with a plunging V shaped sailor neckline and voluminous blouson sleeves with cuffs that extend past the wrists. Sheer lace insets at the sleeves and skirt give this dress a dainty feeling that continues throughout, from the exquisite pleating at the shoulders, skirt, and bodice, to the luminous mother of pearl buttons set along the center front placket.

Size: 38 FR

Size estimate: SML/MED

Measurements:

Shoulders: no defined seams

Sleeves: 26 inches measured from the neckline side

Bust: 38 inches

Waist: 30 inches

Hips: Full

Length: 51 inches

At the waist, a belt of the same fabric loops through the sailor collar at the neckline, wrapping around the bodice and cinching the waistline, accentuating the natural lines of the body. The skirt falls in delicate pleats from just below the bust to several inches above the ankles in a high low hem, creating a classic A-line silhouette.

The skirt opens in a thigh high slit beneath the center front placket, introducing a welcome risqué element that lends even more movement to the billowy silk fabric. Produced in limited quantities, this dress is highly collectable and is the perfect choice for a summer wedding, gala, or special occasion.

This vintage Chloé dress is partially lined and closes with five mother of pearl buttons set along the center front placket. In very good condition with some signs of light wear, this dress has been professionally eco dry cleaned and pressed. High-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.